How to chill during winter

I asked Siri recently what the temperature was and got this reply:

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Which made it clear to me that Siri is not Finnish because -10 / 14F and sunny is a perfect winter’s day in Helsinki.

What we’ve had lately though is -21 /-5.8F with a wind chill of -28 /-18.4F, making life difficult as we still have errands to run and as we don’t have car it’s all done on foot.

So when Markus Watkins emailed me this week to tell me about his photos of people doing summer-time activities during winter, it really resonated with me.

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Rowing Nowhere by Markus Watkins

 

Perhaps it’s the futility of rowing on a frozen lake or searching for summer berries in the snow, but I really like the way he’s thrown the two together because no matter the weather we are outside everyday.

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Sno Berries are Found by Markus Watkins

 

After living in Finland for three years, Markus understands this well.  The 16-year old photographer was born to a British father and Finnish mother and moved to Finland in 2014.

It was while visiting his family’s summer cottage in Asikkala, 130km north of Helsinki, that he found the inspiration for his latest project, The Impossible Contrast.

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Markus Watkins

“After the weather being grey and gloomy for several days, it changed and suddenly got incredibly cold, and the sun came out!  I needed to make the most of it. Since I was at my summer cottage I thought that it would be very interesting to mix my favourite summer activities and contrast them with the winter. The impossible contrast,” he says.

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Ice Cream by Markus Watkins

Currently in high school, Markus is teaching himself about photography and developing his skills as he goes. “I think it is much better to learn this way because you learn the self motivation to keep coming up with ideas and keep developing your own style. I love sharing my images with the world, it gives me a good feeling!”

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Break the Ice by Markus Watkins

He also gets a good feeling from visiting Asikkala, a place his family has been returning to ever since he was a kid.

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The Cold Never Bothered Me Anyway by Markus Watkins

My summer cottage is my favourite place in the world. Every time I come it has a different vibe or feeling, which makes it amazing for photography.”

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Better Luck Next Time by Markus Watkins

As well as his photography, Markus’ sense of humour is also on show in the titles he’s chosen for his photos and I particularly like this comment he makes on his website: ‘Fingers and toes were harmed in the making of this series.’

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A Chilling Tale by Markus Watkins

Check out more of Markus’ work at: 

https://www.instagram.com/markus.watkins/

https://www.behance.net/gallery/47008717/THE-IMPOSSIBLE-CONTRAST

 

November Reign

I read recently that Finland has five seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter and November.  While it’s true this month is dark and wet, here are a few reasons it’s not all bad…

Warm weekend breakfasts at our favourite cafe

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Galleria Keidas

Practising the art of Christmas ginger biscuits

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Taking the shot before Miko steals the dough…

Discovering ‘new’ bars that are old favourites of friends

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Just a spritz of alcohol behind the ears….@Strindberg

Buying Norwegian salmon cooked over hot coals outside work

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Enjoying wine tasting and dinner on a wet Thursday night

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Photo: Angela Lee

Still getting around without full winter gear

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Anticipating the best parts of a good Finnish winter

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Natural History Museum

Remembering that Santa will soon be on his way (on a bicycle powered by oars)

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Talivisirkus (Winter Circus)

The chance to wear my favourite boots to work

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Having to use Miko’s umbrella when I can’t find mine

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Seasonal office attire

New winter socks

New winter socks

Finding out my bank thinks I’m a dame

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My bank’s bathroom door

….and waking up to a ground cover like sugar on cornflakes.

First snow of the season

First snow of the season

 

Summer Daze

I interviewed a photographer earlier this year who said he enjoys the shorter days of winter as it gives him time to go over all the work he did in summer.

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Flow Festival 2015

While it’s not that dark yet, I do enjoy going over the pictures I took when we were too busy to stop and look.

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Flow Festival 2015

Such as these photos from Flow Festival, which we attended in August and I included as one of my 101 reasons to visit Helsinki.

Held over three days this music and arts festival was established in 2004. As well as big acts it showcases bands you may not have come across but are bound to hear more of over the next 12 months.

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Flow Festival 2015

Held in the former industrial area of Suvilahti, the easiest way to arrive is by bicycle and there are also free buses from Central Station.

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Flow Festival 2015

The site was once home to a power plant and the organisers make great use of the space.

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Flow Festival 2015

On Sunday there’s also family-friendly time, with activities set up for children.

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Flow Festival 2015

The food is great, with some of Helsink’s top restaurants represented, each offering a vegetarian option.

Entree from Farang

Seafood entree from Farang

Drinks are not cheap but there are recycling stations around giving one euro back for every can returned, meaning the festival grounds are nearly spotless.

Can return station

Can return station

In some ways it feels like a ‘grown up’ festival with bars serving specialty beers or selling only gin-based cocktails.

Gin and lime

Gin and lime

There were loads of different seating areas…

Marimekko corner

Marimekko corner

…with lots of different seats….

Birch seats

Birch seats

….and bands performing indoors and out.

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I’m always struck by how well-behaved people are at events in Finland, as while there is loads of alcohol consumed the feeling is generally aggression free.

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As the sun went down we watched Beck and Florence and the Machine before it was time to get me home.

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I had enjoyed too many cocktails and as I unlocked my bike nearly started a domino effect involving 2000 bicycles before Jonathan intervened.

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Something else to reflect upon perhaps over the coming dark winter months….

Flow Festival

101 reasons to visit Helsinki

  1. There is a pub tram

    Helsinki's pub tram

    Helsinki’s pub tram

  2. Visit Estonia & be home for dinner

  3. Loads of personal space

  4. These changing sheds

  5. Mushroom season

    Market Square

    Market Square

  6. Pop over to Russia

    St Petersburg

    St Petersburg

  7. Inspiring interiors

    Helsingin Yliopisto Kirjasto

    Helsingin Yliopisto Kirjasto (Helsinki University Library)

  8. Reindeer pate

  9. A new kind of hopscotch

    Lauttasaari bridge

    Lauttasaari bridge

  10. Forest sauna

  11. Beautiful tramways

    Kallio

    Kallio

  12. Really old festivals

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    Baltic Herring Festival – 270 years old

  13. Rum bars

     Navy Jerry's

    Navy Jerry’s

  14. Exotic creatures

  15. Picnics in summer

    Kaivopuisto

    Kaivopuisto

  16.  Historical spaces

  17. Growing cafe scene

    Kahvipaatimo

    Kahvipaatimo

  18. Art nouveau suburbs

  19. Island pizza bars

  20. Beautiful sculptures

  21. Summer cabins in winter

  22. Blini

    Pelmenit

    Pelmenit

  23. Nude public swimming

  24. Foggy nights

    Posti

    Posti

  25. Galleries for children

  26. Design pilgrimage

  27. Coffee and doughnuts are pretty much staple

    Kahvi ja munkki

    Kahvi ja munkki

  28. Oases of Silence

  29. Tropical landscapes

  30. Sand sculptures just two hours east

    Lappeenranta annual sand sculpture event

    Lappeenranta annual sand sculpture event

  31. Frozen harbours in winter

  32. Midsummer bonfires

  33. Modern Art

  34. Great public libraries

  35. Saunas for hire

  36. Fun at the fun park

  37. An old island fortress

  38. Death penalty themed cocktails

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    Liberty or Death

  39. Finding local treasures

  40. Huge indoor playgrounds

  41. Long summer evenings

  42. Pop over to Stockholm

  43. Find good falafel

  44. Walk over to islands

  45. Wooden bicycles

    Helsinki bicycles

    Helsinki bicycles

  46. Central Station

    Rautatientori

    Rautatientori

  47. Rye bread sandwiches

  48. Neo gothic architecture

  49. City sunsets

    Sunset

    Sunset

  50. Finnish products

    Juuri Rye Whiskey

    Juuri Rye Whiskey

  51. Views from great heights

    Torni bar - on the 13th floor

    Torni bar – on the 13th floor

  52. Seaside cafes

  53. Moomin & friends live just two hours west

  54. World class festivals

    Flow Festival

    Flow Festival

  55. These at every cafe

  56. Wild flowers in summer

  57. Iconic design

    Design Museum

    Design Museum

  58. Soviet bars

  59. Wild animals

  60. Long golden autumn

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

  61. An artist village only 2 hours away

  62. Dedicated cycle-ways

  63. A church carved from rock

  64. Summer kiosks

    Seahorse kioski

    Seahorse kioski

  65. Colourful festivals

  66. An island dedicated to sauna and hot tubs

  67. Days where the city becomes a restaurant

  68. Moomin at the library

  69. Summer cafes

  70. Cute locals

  71. Cavorting seals

    Havis Amanda

    Havis Amanda

  72. Danish sandwiches

  73. Wonderful book stores

  74. Less than an hour to Latvia

  75. New ways of commuting

  76. Santa Lucia

  77. Thousands of chocolates

    Fazer Cafe

    Fazer Cafe

  78. Forest walks in the city

  79. Boat shed cafes

  80. Oases of green

  81. Sauna boats

    Sauna boats

    Sauna boats

  82. Christmas shopping

    Stockmann

    Stockmann

  83. So many cakes

  84. A cafe named Fanny

  85. Loads of antique stores

  86. Sauna cosmetics

  87. A day trip to Porvoo

  88. Boat cafes

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    Relandersgrund – open in summer

  89. Streets that are heated

  90. You can meet Santa

  91. Summer time cruises

    The archipelago

    The archipelago

  92. Blueberry pies

  93. Moss graffiti

  94. Meat in a can

  95. Beautiful islands

  96. Fish n’ chips by the water

  97. Boating canals

    Ruoholahti

    Ruoholahti

  98. Finnish cocktails

    A21 Cocktails

    A21 Cocktails

  99. The porridge truck

    Porridge truck

    Porridge truck

  100. Spring blossoms

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

  101. ..and it’s not Vegas
    View from Cafe IPI

    View from Cafe IPI

     

     

     

The Exhibitionists – What we saw in Fiskars

We balanced out all the eating and drinking we did in Fiskars Village by going to see some art (because art – (eating + drinking) = balance). Science.

First we visited ONOMA, the cooperative of artisans, designers and artists in Fiskars.  All members live or work in the village and the co-op organises exhibitions as well as running a store.

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The buildings in Fiskars are so grand and old, they really provide a wonderful backdrop for all that’s on display.

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In this case it was locally-produced homewares, jewellery, glassware and furniture.

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They also had answers to problems you didn’t know you had – like how to store your eggs in a fittingly stylish manner.

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There’s a cafe connected to the store and rooms out the back where you can sit and read.

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Next up, we visited We Love Wood(s)!, ONOMA’s summer exhibition at the Copper Smithy.

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Here, master woodcrafters such as cabinet makers and carpenters, teamed up with designers to create beautiful and practical objects for everyday use.

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Bowls by Matti Söderkultalahti

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Storage dishes by Susan Elo & Rudi Merz 

Some used traditional word-working methods, while others used modern technology such as laser cutting.

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Bench by Antrei Hartikainen & Sakari Hartikainen

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Omkring (space divider) by Mia Cullin & Petri Koivusipilä

We moved through to an adjoining warehouse, where there were larger pieces and an installation consisting of a circle of speakers, each broadcasting a different forest sound.

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Boat of pine, oak and tar by Jussi Nordberg

The next morning we rose early & explored the area around The Granary.

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We then went inside to visit their exhibition, Minun Kalevalani (My Kalevala).

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The Kalevala is Finland’s national epic, based on oral folklore and mythology. It is considered one of the nation’s most significant literature works and is said to have played an important part in the development of the Finnish national identity.

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In this show, 28 craftsmen from Finland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Estonia used iron to present different parts or interpretations of the stories.

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We had a lovely time in Fiskars and strongly recommend a visit next time you are in Finland.

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I particularly liked these guys, who managed to combine all the elements of the shows (wood + art + Kalevala + iron), putting us back in credit, just in time for lunch.

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Fiskars Village

Upcoming event: Fire and Light  24.10.- 21.11.15

ONOMA

Kalevala 

Special thanks to Kaisa at Fiskars Info who provided tips on where to visit and liaised with the galleries, who gave us free entry to the exhibitions.

The Finnish icon in every home

Recently we visited Fiskars Village. You may not recognise the name but I’m pretty confident there’s something of theirs in your home right now.

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Just an hour west of Helsinki, Fiskars was established in 1649  around an ironworks factory. Other industrial buildings, such as a granary and cutlery factory were built and are now home to accommodation, stores and galleries.

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The town was built around a river that acted as a means of transport as well as a source of power. The village is now home to a community of artists and artisans who live and work locally.

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Walking around we felt as though we had landed inside a scene from a Finnish calendar. Part of its beauty also lies in the fact that unlike some Finnish towns, Fiskars is open all year round (days & hours change in winter).

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The old fire station is still standing and is now a theatre, with a tower that was once used to hang hoses out to dry.

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There’s an excellent modern playground as well as relics from the town’s past.

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We visited a candle shop housed in a former dairy, where we bought candles scented for Christmas.

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We also stopped by a brewery, housed in a former knife factory. We were interested to learn that some of their beers are made with New Zealand hops, as well as Finnish tar and spruce tips.

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Fiskars Village is very walkable – you don’t need a car – and there are places such as Petri’s Chocolate Room where you can stop to refuel.

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There are also lots of stores, selling jewellery, homewares, clothing and glass – most of which is handmade locally.

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After a wonderful afternoon we headed back to our accommodation for dinner in Finland’s longest continuously running hotel.

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And what is this Finnish icon you have in your home? Well Fiskars is also the name of the resultant company that still manufactures items for gardening, cooking and craft today.

In 1967 they designed the world’s first pair of plastic handled scissors, selling over a billion pairs since – was one of them to you?

Photo: Fiskars

Photo: Fiskars

Next week: The Exhibitionists (what we saw in Fiskars)

Fiskars Village

Fiskars (the company)

 

A new island home

Not content to be winter’s plainer cousin, autumn was showing her beauty in Helsinki today with blue skies and earthy colours.

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We enjoyed her show on the island of Seurasaari.  Connected to the mainland by a footbridge, this open-air museum is home to buildings from around Finland from across the ages.

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We’ve been at Christmas and at Midsummer but hadn’t yet visited at this time of year.

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Even though most the buildings are now closed for winter it is still worth a visit for a walk and a picnic and the trails are popular with joggers.

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We enjoyed walking around and choosing which house we would live in (as long as it has good insulation).

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Despite having been before, we found new things to enjoy, including signs of Finnish ingenuity from time gone by.

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Autumn was all around us and as always, nature was left untamed and free to grow.

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We were soon joined by the island’s residents, who I assume are starting to squirrel away stores for the Nordic winter.

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Autumn showed us that she is no shrinking violet – and her display will only get stronger between now and November.

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And we finally found the house we might like to live in – or at least have as our summer home.

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Sandwiches in the Snow

A few weeks ago after Finnish class I decided to walk to Töölö where I was headed to interview a young cobbler. It started to snow so intensely it was like being stuck inside a snow dome someone had just shaken up.

With an hour to go until the interview I was relieved to spy this cafe and ducked inside, out of the cold.

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Stepping inside I was taken back by the size. It was tiny! The floor space was about 2m wide by 10m long.

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No one was around but I could understand the sign: ‘Ring bell. We are in the kitchen. Thanks!’

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A young guy came out and took my order from the menu on the wall. He said the store had been open since the 1960’s and his family had bought it fairly recently.

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Most people, he said, phone ahead and take-away. He went back to the kitchen so I took a seat, admiring the retro Danish posters.

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It was great, as though the cafe had been decorated in the 1960’s and hadn’t been updated since.

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My lunch soon arrived – a delicious open sandwich with fresh salmon and cottage cheese.

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Soon another customer stepped in out of the snow and when his order arrived he made as though to eat it standing up. I invited him to share my table – the only table – and we chatted about a trip he’d made with his wife to Australia a few years before.

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Sated and satisfied I headed back out into the snow, watched by a drummer boy pinned by the front door.

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I felt a bit like him as I tightened my coat and set off once more into the swirling snow, my hat and hood piled high upon my head.

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Dansk Smørrebrød – Cygnaeuksenkatu 5, Helsinki

Creating Helsinki – interview with cobbler, Juho Erving

An important lesson in Finnish

With such a mild winter, the sea near Kaivopuisto is not quite frozen and resembles a big bay of slushy pea soup.

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Across the soup lies Uunisaari, a small island that is a 3-minute boat ride away in summer and connected by a bridge in winter.

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The island was once home to varnish producers and coffin makers. Today there is a restaurant and, of course, various sauna.

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There’s also a swimming beach which can be used in winter for ice swimming when a hole is cut in the ice.

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The island is popular with dog-walkers and there’s even a spot to sit and watch big chunks of ice as they float out to sea.

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On the day I visited I was surprised by how many boats there were, left from summer and now filled with ice and snow.

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I heard recently of a visitor to Finland who marvelled at the prolific Finnish artist Älä Koske, whose name they had seen everywhere in art galleries and museums. (Älä koske is Finnish for Don’t Touch).

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So luckily I can speak Spinach and let you know that Uunisaari is definitely worth a return visit in summer – although you’ll probably find the fabulous Cafe Suljettu* has gone.

*Suljettu means closed

Uunisaari

Meet me at Old Market Hall

A short walk from Market Square is Helsinki’s old dame of market halls – Vanhakauppahalli.

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Built in 1888,Vanhakauppahalli (Old Market Hall) was recently closed for renovations and reopened in June 2014. The building is a cultural heritage site and protected by the National Board of Antiquities.

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On a cold winter’s day, with the wind coming in off the Baltic Sea, it’s a relief to get inside those heavy front doors. Inside, a walkway circles the hall, shouldered on either side by cafes, bakeries and fishmongers.

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There are also greengrocers selling seasonal produce from Finland and overseas. It’s a great place to go for specialty mushrooms and berries, as well as big suolakurkku (gherkins) you scoop out of an open bucket.

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For lunch I usually head straight for Soppakeittiö (Soup Kitchen) where the menu always consists of one meat soup, one vegetarian and their delicious seafood boullabaisse, served with lemon-infused sour cream.

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On my most recent visit however I stopped at Story, where the food counter is sure to whet your appetite. I had a cappuccino (equivalent of a NZ flat white) and lohileipa (smoked salmon on bread).

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After lunch I walked the circuit, marvelling at the number of things you can do with salmon. In my mind I always hear the southern drawl of Bubba from the movie Forrest Gump (salmon bbq, salmon cocktail, salmon pie…..).

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There are other forms of protein on offer for the more adventurous too, like Russian King Crab and Spanish jamon.

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 As well as traditional Finnish offerings there is also a vegetarian cafe and a stall selling Vietnamese filled-rolls, spring rolls and salads.

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And there’s an Alko, the only store in Finland selling wine and spirits. This one is touted as being ‘the world’s smallest Alko’ (which is a little bit like American teams winning the ‘World Series’ in a competition only open to American teams).

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There are other Market Halls in Helsinki but this is one of my favourites. If you get a table by the window you can watch the ferry to Suomenlinna making it’s way past the huge cruise ships churning up the frozen sea.

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Go with a friend or go on your own – just make sure you go. I’ll be the one making my way from coffee, to soup to dessert and back as I make my way around Old Market Hall.

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Vanhakauppahalli – Eteläranta, Helsinki

Ravintola Story

Note: I was approached by Meetings Booker to write about my favourite meeting place in Helsinki. This is not a sponsored post and all thoughts are my own (as was that open salmon sandwich, which I cannot stop thinking about). www.meetingsbooker.com