101 reasons to visit Helsinki

  1. There is a pub tram

    Helsinki's pub tram

    Helsinki’s pub tram

  2. Visit Estonia & be home for dinner

  3. Loads of personal space

  4. These changing sheds

  5. Mushroom season

    Market Square

    Market Square

  6. Pop over to Russia

    St Petersburg

    St Petersburg

  7. Inspiring interiors

    Helsingin Yliopisto Kirjasto

    Helsingin Yliopisto Kirjasto (Helsinki University Library)

  8. Reindeer pate

  9. A new kind of hopscotch

    Lauttasaari bridge

    Lauttasaari bridge

  10. Forest sauna

  11. Beautiful tramways

    Kallio

    Kallio

  12. Really old festivals

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    Baltic Herring Festival – 270 years old

  13. Rum bars

     Navy Jerry's

    Navy Jerry’s

  14. Exotic creatures

  15. Picnics in summer

    Kaivopuisto

    Kaivopuisto

  16.  Historical spaces

  17. Growing cafe scene

    Kahvipaatimo

    Kahvipaatimo

  18. Art nouveau suburbs

  19. Island pizza bars

  20. Beautiful sculptures

  21. Summer cabins in winter

  22. Blini

    Pelmenit

    Pelmenit

  23. Nude public swimming

  24. Foggy nights

    Posti

    Posti

  25. Galleries for children

  26. Design pilgrimage

  27. Coffee and doughnuts are pretty much staple

    Kahvi ja munkki

    Kahvi ja munkki

  28. Oases of Silence

  29. Tropical landscapes

  30. Sand sculptures just two hours east

    Lappeenranta annual sand sculpture event

    Lappeenranta annual sand sculpture event

  31. Frozen harbours in winter

  32. Midsummer bonfires

  33. Modern Art

  34. Great public libraries

  35. Saunas for hire

  36. Fun at the fun park

  37. An old island fortress

  38. Death penalty themed cocktails

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    Liberty or Death

  39. Finding local treasures

  40. Huge indoor playgrounds

  41. Long summer evenings

  42. Pop over to Stockholm

  43. Find good falafel

  44. Walk over to islands

  45. Wooden bicycles

    Helsinki bicycles

    Helsinki bicycles

  46. Central Station

    Rautatientori

    Rautatientori

  47. Rye bread sandwiches

  48. Neo gothic architecture

  49. City sunsets

    Sunset

    Sunset

  50. Finnish products

    Juuri Rye Whiskey

    Juuri Rye Whiskey

  51. Views from great heights

    Torni bar - on the 13th floor

    Torni bar – on the 13th floor

  52. Seaside cafes

  53. Moomin & friends live just two hours west

  54. World class festivals

    Flow Festival

    Flow Festival

  55. These at every cafe

  56. Wild flowers in summer

  57. Iconic design

    Design Museum

    Design Museum

  58. Soviet bars

  59. Wild animals

  60. Long golden autumn

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

  61. An artist village only 2 hours away

  62. Dedicated cycle-ways

  63. A church carved from rock

  64. Summer kiosks

    Seahorse kioski

    Seahorse kioski

  65. Colourful festivals

  66. An island dedicated to sauna and hot tubs

  67. Days where the city becomes a restaurant

  68. Moomin at the library

  69. Summer cafes

  70. Cute locals

  71. Cavorting seals

    Havis Amanda

    Havis Amanda

  72. Danish sandwiches

  73. Wonderful book stores

  74. Less than an hour to Latvia

  75. New ways of commuting

  76. Santa Lucia

  77. Thousands of chocolates

    Fazer Cafe

    Fazer Cafe

  78. Forest walks in the city

  79. Boat shed cafes

  80. Oases of green

  81. Sauna boats

    Sauna boats

    Sauna boats

  82. Christmas shopping

    Stockmann

    Stockmann

  83. So many cakes

  84. A cafe named Fanny

  85. Loads of antique stores

  86. Sauna cosmetics

  87. A day trip to Porvoo

  88. Boat cafes

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    Relandersgrund – open in summer

  89. Streets that are heated

  90. You can meet Santa

  91. Summer time cruises

    The archipelago

    The archipelago

  92. Blueberry pies

  93. Moss graffiti

  94. Meat in a can

  95. Beautiful islands

  96. Fish n’ chips by the water

  97. Boating canals

    Ruoholahti

    Ruoholahti

  98. Finnish cocktails

    A21 Cocktails

    A21 Cocktails

  99. The porridge truck

    Porridge truck

    Porridge truck

  100. Spring blossoms

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

    Lastenlahdenpuisto

  101. ..and it’s not Vegas
    View from Cafe IPI

    View from Cafe IPI

     

     

     

Doesn’t like wet feet ( A guide to growing indoor plants in Finland)

People often tell me they can’t keep plants alive, but it’s really not too hard. Like children and pets they do need a bit of attention now and then to keep them healthy and sustained but seriously, anyone can do it.

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When moving to a new climate it does take a bit of learning about what plants do best and it helps to know a few basic steps on how to care for them. Here’s my beginners guide to keeping your apartment looking green in Finland.

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Look for Clues

In homes and offices, as well as in plant shops, you’ll start to notice the same kinds of plants over and over again. This is a good way to ascertain what grows well here and also the time of year it becomes available.

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This plant is really common here in Finland and is growing well in a bedroom with only two small windows. As winter approaches you’ll need to find plants that survive well with very little light so take clues from those you see doing well around you.

Move it, move it

This plant has been hanging near a window in our bedroom, up against the glass.

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He was sagging and drooping like limp wet washing until I moved him last week, just around the corner and out of direct sunlight. He immediately sprung to attention like some crazy guy looking for a party and so here he will stay. Take hints from your plants and if they’re not happy, try moving them. Mix up things like direct sun, shade, window positions and shelter.

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This guy is very happy in his usual window spot but I may move him in winter

Lest we Forget

My favourite kind of plants (after palms) are succulents and cacti – and you don’t need to overlook them in Finland. We don’t have the same kind of heatwaves but we do live in a cold, dry climate – much like a desert in winter.

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If you think about it, cacti can withstand cold temperatures. Just don’t over water them when it’s cold and remember they don’t like wet feet (who does?) so put them in cactus soil that drains water away. With good heating and triple-glazed windows, Helsinki apartments are warm over winter so bring your cacti indoors during the colder months.

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Invest in your babies

I paid 80 euro for this huge monstera, which is a good incentive for me to keep it alive.

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You also need to invest your time – but I don’t mean loads of it. I take a glass of water to bed every night and hardly ever drink it, so in the morning I tip it on to a different plant each day. That’s it. A regular little drink to the one who looks like they most need it tends to keep everyone happy.

Read the signs

When you buy plants they tend to come with a plastic sign with some basic care instructions on the back. Does it like sun, shade, direct light? How often should it be watered? Sometimes that’s all you need to know to keep your plant alive.

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‘Tis the season

Don’t be afraid to buy something just for winter. These heathers do really well in Finland and survive even in snow.

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You can also buy small trees in pots that will survive the cold. I used to buy plants for life (mine). Now I buy them for the plant’s life, doing my best to keep them going over winter but adapting to new varieties if they don’t make it through.

Keep trying

I’ve yet to master growing something really well in these glass bulbs but will persevere because I really like them.

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The trick is they need just a little water and often, because the water drips straight out. A spray bottle is a good way to wet them and my monstera loves a spray on his trunk so he gets one too on the way past.

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So, there you have it. You can grow plants and you can do it well – and it has nothing to do with luck. With just a little bit of loving they’ll keep you happy and healthy all year round, just as you do for them. (Otherwise – faking it is also okay).

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The Exhibitionists – What we saw in Fiskars

We balanced out all the eating and drinking we did in Fiskars Village by going to see some art (because art – (eating + drinking) = balance). Science.

First we visited ONOMA, the cooperative of artisans, designers and artists in Fiskars.  All members live or work in the village and the co-op organises exhibitions as well as running a store.

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The buildings in Fiskars are so grand and old, they really provide a wonderful backdrop for all that’s on display.

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In this case it was locally-produced homewares, jewellery, glassware and furniture.

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They also had answers to problems you didn’t know you had – like how to store your eggs in a fittingly stylish manner.

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There’s a cafe connected to the store and rooms out the back where you can sit and read.

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Next up, we visited We Love Wood(s)!, ONOMA’s summer exhibition at the Copper Smithy.

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Here, master woodcrafters such as cabinet makers and carpenters, teamed up with designers to create beautiful and practical objects for everyday use.

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Bowls by Matti Söderkultalahti

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Storage dishes by Susan Elo & Rudi Merz 

Some used traditional word-working methods, while others used modern technology such as laser cutting.

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Bench by Antrei Hartikainen & Sakari Hartikainen

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Omkring (space divider) by Mia Cullin & Petri Koivusipilä

We moved through to an adjoining warehouse, where there were larger pieces and an installation consisting of a circle of speakers, each broadcasting a different forest sound.

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Boat of pine, oak and tar by Jussi Nordberg

The next morning we rose early & explored the area around The Granary.

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We then went inside to visit their exhibition, Minun Kalevalani (My Kalevala).

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The Kalevala is Finland’s national epic, based on oral folklore and mythology. It is considered one of the nation’s most significant literature works and is said to have played an important part in the development of the Finnish national identity.

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In this show, 28 craftsmen from Finland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Estonia used iron to present different parts or interpretations of the stories.

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We had a lovely time in Fiskars and strongly recommend a visit next time you are in Finland.

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I particularly liked these guys, who managed to combine all the elements of the shows (wood + art + Kalevala + iron), putting us back in credit, just in time for lunch.

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Fiskars Village

Upcoming event: Fire and Light  24.10.- 21.11.15

ONOMA

Kalevala 

Special thanks to Kaisa at Fiskars Info who provided tips on where to visit and liaised with the galleries, who gave us free entry to the exhibitions.

The Finnish icon in every home

Recently we visited Fiskars Village. You may not recognise the name but I’m pretty confident there’s something of theirs in your home right now.

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Just an hour west of Helsinki, Fiskars was established in 1649  around an ironworks factory. Other industrial buildings, such as a granary and cutlery factory were built and are now home to accommodation, stores and galleries.

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The town was built around a river that acted as a means of transport as well as a source of power. The village is now home to a community of artists and artisans who live and work locally.

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Walking around we felt as though we had landed inside a scene from a Finnish calendar. Part of its beauty also lies in the fact that unlike some Finnish towns, Fiskars is open all year round (days & hours change in winter).

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The old fire station is still standing and is now a theatre, with a tower that was once used to hang hoses out to dry.

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There’s an excellent modern playground as well as relics from the town’s past.

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We visited a candle shop housed in a former dairy, where we bought candles scented for Christmas.

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We also stopped by a brewery, housed in a former knife factory. We were interested to learn that some of their beers are made with New Zealand hops, as well as Finnish tar and spruce tips.

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Fiskars Village is very walkable – you don’t need a car – and there are places such as Petri’s Chocolate Room where you can stop to refuel.

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There are also lots of stores, selling jewellery, homewares, clothing and glass – most of which is handmade locally.

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After a wonderful afternoon we headed back to our accommodation for dinner in Finland’s longest continuously running hotel.

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And what is this Finnish icon you have in your home? Well Fiskars is also the name of the resultant company that still manufactures items for gardening, cooking and craft today.

In 1967 they designed the world’s first pair of plastic handled scissors, selling over a billion pairs since – was one of them to you?

Photo: Fiskars

Photo: Fiskars

Next week: The Exhibitionists (what we saw in Fiskars)

Fiskars Village

Fiskars (the company)

 

Helsinki’s best cafes to meet with kids in autumn

I met a lovely Finnish family today who were looking for some tips for their upcoming visit to NZ. While they admitted I am the first New Zealander they have ever met (I hope I did us proud) there is a small community of us here and there is a meet up planned for tomorrow afternoon.

With a high forecast of just five degrees, it got me thinking of the best cafes in Helsinki to meet at when you have kids & the weather is cool. These are my top three & I’d love to hear any other ideas (because we all know it ain’t getting warmer any time soon….)

Moko Market

This homewares store has a great cafe as well as one of the best roasters in the city housed out the back (Kaffa Roastery). There is a room you can reserve, as well as a playhouse, making it popular for baby showers.

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Book Cafe at Annantalo

This grand old building is a children’s arts centre and the cafe is spacious and comfortable. As well as tables there is a curved couch and loads of children’s books in Finnish and Swedish. There are also exhibitions for children and art workshops.

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Children can leave their pacifier with this toucan when it’s time to give them up

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Cafe Koket

This spacious cafe has a play area and you can reserve tables for groups. There’s Babies Brunch every Monday for parents with young kids and they serve a cake made out of cinnamon buns! See the website for details of their Father’s Day brunch.

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Baby Brunch on Mondays

Baby Brunch on Mondays

A new island home

Not content to be winter’s plainer cousin, autumn was showing her beauty in Helsinki today with blue skies and earthy colours.

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We enjoyed her show on the island of Seurasaari.  Connected to the mainland by a footbridge, this open-air museum is home to buildings from around Finland from across the ages.

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We’ve been at Christmas and at Midsummer but hadn’t yet visited at this time of year.

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Even though most the buildings are now closed for winter it is still worth a visit for a walk and a picnic and the trails are popular with joggers.

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We enjoyed walking around and choosing which house we would live in (as long as it has good insulation).

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Despite having been before, we found new things to enjoy, including signs of Finnish ingenuity from time gone by.

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Autumn was all around us and as always, nature was left untamed and free to grow.

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We were soon joined by the island’s residents, who I assume are starting to squirrel away stores for the Nordic winter.

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Autumn showed us that she is no shrinking violet – and her display will only get stronger between now and November.

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And we finally found the house we might like to live in – or at least have as our summer home.

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How to look good naked (or at least use the time trying)

While Finnish sauna culture can conjure up images of large bearded men, drinking and beating each other with bunches of birch, sauna is also a wonderful way to introduce a ritual of cleansing and quietness to the end of a busy week.

Wood-heated sauna

Wood-heated sauna

In fact, the sauna is considered the cleanest room in the house, making it the preferred place to give birth and lay out the dead in years gone by.

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Most homes will have one, or at least a common one in the building that tenants can book for use each week. Accordingly, most department stores in Finland have a dedicated section where they sell a range of sauna accoutrements.

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I recently discovered this included felt hats to protect your hair and ears from getting too hot and to protect colour-treated hair. (For the record, I do not wear one).

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With bath tubs uncommon in Finland I’ve learnt to enjoy the ritual of sauna and take the time to use all the masks and treatments I buy and otherwise forget to use.

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While I’m no expert on what real Finnish people do, here’s my sauna routine that I recommend as the Nordic winter draws near:

  • Shower first – always shower before you go into sauna to wash off dirt, make-up and any perfume
  • Sauna naked – imagine if you were doing a facial steam bath and someone added a few drops of chlorine – this is partly why swimsuits are not generally welcome (unless you’re in a mixed gender sauna or have agreed beforehand)

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  • Stay until you are comfortably hot and sweaty – even if this is only ten minutes – remembering the higher you sit, the hotter you’ll get
  • Come out and shower. This is when I like to use a face scrub, followed by a face mask.
  • I might also put on a honey body mask and put coconut oil in my hair (or an expensive hair treatment I promised my hairdresser I’d use weekly and only remember the night before my next appointment).

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  • Have a glass of water and return to the sauna
  • Come out and shower again. For men, this is a good time to shave as your pores will be open and your skin relaxed.
  • Repeat until done. During your final shower wash and condition your hair.
  • Drink more water, moisturise and get ready for the best sleep of your life.
  • Wake up feeling relaxed and ready for the week ahead.
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Feeling very relaxed, well into Monday at least

*Results may vary but you will smell good & possibly attractive to bears.

Ten Sauna Tips for Beginners – Visit Finland

Day Two: Into the woods

Following the deep sleep that comes after sauna and swimming, we woke to Day Two at Hirvijärvi (Moose Lake) and a new range of activities.

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After breakfast, Heikki took us out on the lake in his row boat, something I have not done for years.

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It was a wonderful chance to have a peek at the other houses and cabins that circle the water’s edge.

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A chimney is a sign of a wood-fired sauna, down near the shore.

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Heikki rowed us across to Lemmenkallio (Love Rock) where we climbed for great views of the lake.

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On the way back he told us how he used to row with his grandfather to a nearby farm to buy fresh milk, which they would carry home in aluminium cans.

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Once back at the cabin we decided to venture into the woods, looking for signs of Moose Lake’s namesake.

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It wasn’t long before we came across moose droppings and further on in the soft moss, fresh moose tracks.

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Moose footprint

Moose footprint

The moss was amazing and I still marvel at how the ground cover regenerates each year after the long cold winters.

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The landscape is so different it somehow feels like being on the moon – if the moon was covered in moss – and is spongy to walk on.

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Although we didn’t spot any moose, we were soon joined by the local moose-flies, something that until then we had only ever heard about.

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Like a brown flat house-fly, they are parasitic insects that live on the blood of moose, elk and other bovine animals. Once landed, they shed their wings and burrow into the skin of their host. For humans this means they can be really difficult to remove from your hair and Miko and Jonathan soon donned hair nets to keep them away.

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I had to laugh because as much as I say I love nature, it did become a bit much for this city girl. Although you can take the girl out of the forest, would we be able to take the forest (& its inhabitants) out of us?

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As we left Hirvijärvi to head back to Helsinki, the rain started to fall and we were sorry to leave such an idyllic setting. However we left grateful for such an amazing weekend and the feeling of experiencing something of real Finnish life, flies and all.

Secrets of the summer cottage

Helsinki empties over June and July as Finns escape the city and head to their summer cottages. While we could rent one ourselves, we were really pleased last weekend to spend time with Finnish friends at theirs and get an inside look at this part of Finnish life.

Photo: Heikki Puomilla

Early morning at Hirvijärvi      Photo: Heikki Puomila

About an hour out of Helsinki, we joined Heikki and Anu and their young daughter on the shores of Hirvijärvi (Moose Lake). Heikki has been holidaying here since he was a child as his grandfather built a house in the same spot.

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Although the house has been rebuilt and modern features such as electricity and running water added, the composting toilet is still outside. While I did scare myself with the thought of bears during a midnight visit, it was a huge relief not to have to check for large Australian spiders.

Composting loo

Composting loo

Part of the joy of the weekend was the chance to experience Finnish life outside of the city. After lunch we met with the local community committee, many of whom have been holidaying for generations around the shores of the same lake.

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We were warmly greeted and joined in a game where we tossed 2 euro coins at bottles of wine, with the one landing closest being the winner. In spite of my focus and good technique, I was narrowly beaten by a 12-year old boy.

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On returning to our cottage, the men and kids went fishing off the jetty, catching three small fish with bait made from flour and water.

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Heikki also showed Miko how they identify local butterflies, something his family have an avid and professional interest in.

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After a dinner of hamburgers grilled on the fire, we cooked pancakes down by the outside sauna.

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We each had a turn at flipping the pancakes, which were delicious and served with jam.

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After dinner, it was time for a huge bonfire, a tradition lit to mark the end of summer and the end of the cottage season. Heikki also let off a few fireworks he had leftover from the year before.

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As the sun dropped low in the sky the most incredible full moon rose to take its place. People lit candles out on their jetties as a way to farewell summer, with a small house on an island soon surrounded by flickering lights.

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After the children went to bed, Heikki, Jonathan and I hit the sauna, which is heated by a wood-burning fireplace inside.

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Heikki made a couple of vihta (bunches of birch leaves) and taught us how to beat ourselves and each other with them to really get the blood flowing (we have been doing it far too softly and slowly apparently).

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Each time we got too hot we headed outside to the lake, where we swam by the light of the full moon. At one point there were also huge fireworks going off overhead.

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I really can’t describe just how incredible it was to be swimming at midnight in a lake lit by candles and the moon, with fireworks bursting into bloom above us. While we all know we have another long winter ahead of us, instead of being a sad occasion it was the perfect way to say goodbye to summer.

To follow: Day Two at the summer cottage, where we head onto the lake and into the forest, finding evidence of moose and something to rival Australian spiders..

Moomin loves you

A friend gave us a family pass to Moomin World recently and when 5 euro tickets to Turku came on sale we decided to grab that train and have a weekend away.

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We stayed in Naantali, a seaside town just out of Turku and home to Moomin World.

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Naantali was looking very pretty this summer and we enjoyed eating by the water and wandering through the Old Town.

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As well as the wooden shops and cafes, there’s also a beautiful old church. There was a funeral on however and when we went to go in later it was closed.

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(I’m still not sure if these are nuns or women on their way to a fancy dress party).

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Moomin World itself is a short walk from the Old Town, over a bridge and housed on a small island.

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The Moomin family and friends are characters from books written by Tove Jansson and are much-loved in Finland and beyond.

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At Moomin World you’ll find all the characters from the books as well as the police station and various homes.

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We wandered through three stories of the Moomin family home, sitting on Moomin’s bed and peeking in their cupboards.

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If you’re thinking of visiting Naantali or Moomin World, you’ll want to plan your trip as both are only really open during the summer.

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But for Moomin fans it’s definitely worth a visit. There are various scenes recreated around the island with characters you can interact with.

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We are not that familiar with the stories yet to be honest but I’m sure we soon will be. After meeting and hugging him, Miko told me quietly, ‘Moomin loves me.’

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