Sandwiches in the Snow

A few weeks ago after Finnish class I decided to walk to Töölö where I was headed to interview a young cobbler. It started to snow so intensely it was like being stuck inside a snow dome someone had just shaken up.

With an hour to go until the interview I was relieved to spy this cafe and ducked inside, out of the cold.

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Stepping inside I was taken back by the size. It was tiny! The floor space was about 2m wide by 10m long.

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No one was around but I could understand the sign: ‘Ring bell. We are in the kitchen. Thanks!’

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A young guy came out and took my order from the menu on the wall. He said the store had been open since the 1960’s and his family had bought it fairly recently.

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Most people, he said, phone ahead and take-away. He went back to the kitchen so I took a seat, admiring the retro Danish posters.

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It was great, as though the cafe had been decorated in the 1960’s and hadn’t been updated since.

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My lunch soon arrived – a delicious open sandwich with fresh salmon and cottage cheese.

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Soon another customer stepped in out of the snow and when his order arrived he made as though to eat it standing up. I invited him to share my table – the only table – and we chatted about a trip he’d made with his wife to Australia a few years before.

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Sated and satisfied I headed back out into the snow, watched by a drummer boy pinned by the front door.

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I felt a bit like him as I tightened my coat and set off once more into the swirling snow, my hat and hood piled high upon my head.

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Dansk Smørrebrød – Cygnaeuksenkatu 5, Helsinki

Creating Helsinki – interview with cobbler, Juho Erving

An important lesson in Finnish

With such a mild winter, the sea near Kaivopuisto is not quite frozen and resembles a big bay of slushy pea soup.

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Across the soup lies Uunisaari, a small island that is a 3-minute boat ride away in summer and connected by a bridge in winter.

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The island was once home to varnish producers and coffin makers. Today there is a restaurant and, of course, various sauna.

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There’s also a swimming beach which can be used in winter for ice swimming when a hole is cut in the ice.

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The island is popular with dog-walkers and there’s even a spot to sit and watch big chunks of ice as they float out to sea.

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On the day I visited I was surprised by how many boats there were, left from summer and now filled with ice and snow.

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I heard recently of a visitor to Finland who marvelled at the prolific Finnish artist Älä Koske, whose name they had seen everywhere in art galleries and museums. (Älä koske is Finnish for Don’t Touch).

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So luckily I can speak Spinach and let you know that Uunisaari is definitely worth a return visit in summer – although you’ll probably find the fabulous Cafe Suljettu* has gone.

*Suljettu means closed

Uunisaari