The answer to one of life’s mysteries…almost

Here I will endeavour to answer one of life’s most interesting questions. A question as interesting as it is intriguing, and so oft asked you’ll know it before you read it: How do Finns sort their recycling?

And my answer has but two words: Comprehensively and Honestly.

Comprehensively because I have never before seen so many options in one rubbish room. I thought I was doing well in New Zealand because I separated the recyclables from the paper. But here, each of those items has its own bin AND they separate the paper into three different categories. Maybe more.

Mixed waste

Mixed waste

In our rubbish room in Helsinki there is a different bin for each type of waste: glass, metal, mixed waste, bio waste and then the three paper bins. So for the first week or so I was constantly lifting the lid of each bin for clues as to what goes where.

Bio waste including paper towels

Bio waste including paper towels

To be honest I still haven’t figured out all the paper bins but from what I can tell these are the categories: magazines & letters (advertising); regular paper; cardboard including corrugated cardboard; and cartons such as milk cartons, pizza boxes and egg crates – each type of paper or card having its own receptacle. Paper towels and tissues go in with the bio waste. And to make it more confusing for my little English-speaking mind there seems to be another bin for boxes.

Letters & Magazines

Letters & Magazines

But where is the bin for plastics? Well that’s why I said Finns recycle honestly. There is NO bin for plastics! Plastic drink bottles earn you a small refund at the cleverly named reverse vending machines but general household plastics (detergent bottles, ice cream containers, plastic takeaway containers) are not collected for recycling.

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Cartons & sugar and flour in paper bags

There’s a community forum online where new arrivals to Finland can ask questions. Someone had already sought guidance about where to put plastics and another member explained it is too difficult and therefore too expensive for household plastics to be sorted for recycling. Plastic waste is also often not clean enough for recycling which makes my mixed bin of glass, metal and every plastic under the sun seem a nightmare for the recyclers in NZ now.

Plastic recycling bins were trialled in the 1990s in Finland but from what I read the energy used to sort and clean all the plastic was found to outweigh the environmental benefits. It’s not to say no household plastics are recycled in Finland as they are used for fuel and other products but you won’t find a bin in most residential buildings.

The flipside of this is it does make me think more about packaging as I know plastics won’t be recycled instead of kind of hoping they would. You have to pay for bags at the supermarket too so I’m much better at taking my own bag along. We even have one with the image of the Finnish national icon on it.

Our shopping bag featuring Moomin

Our shopping bag featuring Moomin

 

 

 

Hietalahti Market Square

We were walking to catch the bus yesterday but roadworks meant we had to walk further than anticipated. Which was great because we came across Hietalahti Markets in full swing.

Hietalahti Market Square

Hietalahti Market Square

This popular flea market is located near the water and is open Monday – Saturday and Sundays in summer. There was a huge range of wares for sale including second hand clothing, fabric, antiques, retro and vintage homewares and furniture. There were even a couple of stalls selling fresh produce direct from the growers. The Market Hall behind is home to a huge food market selling everything from fish and meat to cheese and pastries (more on that later).

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It’s as though Hercule Poirot is having a garage sale

We only had 15 minutes until our bus arrived and so we did a fairly quick round of all the tables and all the treasures they held. I will definitely be coming back though as my eyes were like huge saucers looking at all the retro dinnerware and furniture.

Something for everyone - even those without their own family portraits

Something for everyone – even those without their own family portraits

Just last week I was extolling the virtues of minimalism and how good it is to not have all our stuff here yet from New Zealand. But that was before we stumbled across Hietalahti Market Square…and maybe it doesn’t count if it used to be someone else’s stuff….?

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Bargains galore – and this 400€ pöytä (table)

On

The positive side-effects of moving overseas

I was laughing with my friend Adam about why we felt we needed to move somewhere else before we made a start on our ‘A Better Me’ to do list. For example, I just ‘knew’ that once we moved to Finland I would cook my way through Ottolenghi’s Plenty cookbook, despite only using it twice in NZ. I also ‘know’ that in winter I will read all the novels I have on my bedside table and use my time wisely, doing craft and baking rather than lying around eating cheese toasties like I do at home. And Adam ‘knew’ that once he moved into his new house he was going to do yoga on the balcony each and every morning. I must check in with how that’s going….

Artist's impression of me baking this winter

Artist’s impression of me baking this winter

…because I’m making some headway on my list! Although its all by circumstance, rather than self-discipline. Which makes me think perhaps I wasn’t really identifying enough with why I thought I should do some of these things in the first place and therefore never did them. Here’s what I’ve managed so far:

I’m walking everyday

Original reason: I love to exercise and make it a part of my daily life

Real reason: We don’t own a car here

I no longer watch TV

Original reason: My time is valuable and I use it wisely

Real reason: Everything I’ve seen so far is in Finnish or Swedish except for McCleod’s Daughters or Emmerdale. Having said that I did watch a bit of Miss Finland and a doco on Abba but am not tuning in to tune out every night.

I’m not reading the news

Original reason: I don’t need to fill my head with the bad things that happen in the world

Real reason: I don’t really feel too attached to the world of news here or overseas at the moment

I don’t drink wine every night (despite it being good for your heart)

Original reason: My body is a temple and not one that takes communion every day in large glasses*

Real reason: They don’t sell wine at the supermarket and the Alko store is a fair walk away (more on that later)

We eat simple meals each night together at the table

Original reason: We eat mindfully and value our together time

Real reason: We don’t have a fridge full of food accumulated over time and we are also trying to buy conservatively as we are still spending NZ dollars. Jonny now finishes work at 6pm at the latest and not Miko’s bedtime like he did in NZ. (Also see item above about not watching TV).

We live minimally and are not tied to our possessions

Original reason: Something about not needing ‘stuff’ to feel good

Real reason: It’s all in shipping containers and isn’t here yet!

* I realise this is a mixed religious metaphor but nobody says ‘my body is a Catholic church’

Where a dragon guards a ship near the sea

According to Helsinki’s official tourism website, “Kaivopuisto is one of the oldest, most beautiful and popular parks in Helsinki.” So far it’s definitely been one of our faves and like most things in Helsinki, very easy to get to.

Kaivopuisto playground is guarded by a large dragon

Kaivopuisto playground is guarded by a large dragon

Miko and I were in the city and caught the number 3 tram from Aleksanterinkatu to the park. A short walk later and we spotted the dragon we had been told would identify the playground. Wooden seats and tables were spread out under the trees and not far away was another play area for younger children.

Miko atop the mighty dragon

Miko atop the mighty dragon

The dragon is great fun for climbing on and there are crocodiles  set in the ground too which are great accessories for pirate adventures on the large ship-like fortress.

Looking for pirates

Looking for pirates

The ship-fort has lots of fun accessories like binoculars and a steering wheel as well as slides and ladders. Nearby is a crows nest which Miko used as a look-out spot for sharks.

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Kaivopuisto (Kaivo park) itself is very large and a very popular place in summer. It is the favourite spot for May Day picnics and where we spent Vappu. It’s a short walk to the sea as the park borders the Gulf of Finland and the surrounding streets are home to many of the international ambassadors to Finland. Apparently the largest hill in the park is a very popular place for tobogganing in winter which will make this a park we can use all year round.

Tiring work this captaining

Tiring work this captaining

Kaivopuisto Playground

Puistokatu 4

www.visithelsinki.fi

The secret to good housekeeping (Finnish style)

I have a very close friend in New Zealand whose house is always clean and tidy. Despite a busy schedule she takes pride in keeping her surroundings neat and somehow finds the time to do so. Recently though she confided that she has on occassion hidden dirty dishes in her oven if she doesn’t have time to wash up before guests arrive ( I once hid Jonathan’s Christmas present in the dishwasher because I knew at the time he never opened it, but that’s another story).

Our kitchen in Helsinki

Our kitchen in Helsinki

Here in Finland they have thought of one of the best ideas I have come across for keeping the kitchen tidy. We are lucky in our current kitchen that we have lots of bench space, but when we haven’t its annoying to have to compete with a dish drying rack for room. Like most people we often leave our washed dishes to air-dry too, meaning there can be a pile of dishes out on the bench.

The dish drying rack hidden in the cupboard above the sink

The dish drying rack hidden in the cupboard above the sink

So I love the Finnish idea of having a cupboard above the sink that has two drying racks installed. Underneath is a drip-tray that catches any water. You just wash the dishes, stacking them in the cupboard as you go and then shut the doors. When you come back in the morning the dishes are dry and ready to be put away (or used from the dish rack). The flipside is it also means your oven can be used for other things – like stashing unfinished ironing before you answer the doorbell.

Kuppi ja Muffini Cafe

Today I had coffee with a lovely Finnish girl, Katri. We had never met before but a mutual friend in the UK put us in touch. I was really touched that Katri took the time to meet with me as she is about to move overseas and has a few goodbyes to make. I was missing home today and it was good to have someone to meet for coffee. She suggested we meet at Kuppi ja Muffini Cafe, just around the corner from our apartment.

Miko and Teddy Baby

Miko and Teddy Baby

Kuppi ja Muffini (Cup & Muffin) is run by two friends who believe in quality baking with only natural ingredients. The cake counter was full of delicious looking cupcakes and treats. Miko had a small Rocky Road cupcake and I had a delicious banana and berry muffin. It had great texture and walnuts and sugar baked on the top. We shared a freshly squeezed carrot and ginger juice (90% to Miko, 10% to me).

Cakes are baked daily and according to the season

Cakes are baked daily and according to the season

The decor reminded me of a New Zealand cafe. There were some cool retro features inside a cool, clean interior. A bookshelf in the back room had books for patrons to read. There was a wooden rocking chair in the corner that would be great for reading in, complete with crochet rug. It would have been a great day to settle in there as we had a brief snow-shower come down while we sat inside.

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Although frosty outside, the staff were really warm and one lady brought out a basket of toys for Miko. A woman behind us was comfortably ensconced with her Suomi (Finnish) textbooks and the cafe filled up as lunchtime drew near. You’d have to look for Kuppi & Muffini as its signage is quite subtle, but if fresh baked treats and delicious drinks are your thing, its definitely worth a look.

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Kuppi & Muffini

Kalevankatu 17, Helsinki

www.kuppijamuffini.fi

Hyvää Vappua!

The only May Day I’m familiar with is the distress call made by captains of marine vessels as they face disaster at sea. And by ‘familiar with‘ I mean I’ve watched them on TV from the comfort of my couch. So it was with pleasure that I experienced my first May Day and it wasn’t a disaster at all!  

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A sea of white caps converges on Esplanadi for the capping of Havis Amanda

Vapuu is a variation of the name ‘Walpurgis Night’ (Walpurgisnacht), a feast observed in Germany for Saint Walpurga since the 8th century. The celebrations being on 30 April and carry on into the 1 May which is a public holiday in Finland and signifies the start of Spring. It is one of the biggest holidays on the calendar, up there in significance with Christmas, New Years and Midsummer.

Students start celebrating from the week before and their area of study is identified by the colour of their overalls

Students start celebrating the week before and their area of study is identified by the colour of their overalls

On the 30th April, crowds converge on Market Square in white caps, identifying them as university preparation school alumni. The festivities really kick off at 6pm when a white cap is placed on the head of the statue of Havis Amanda by a group of students raised high in a cherry-picker. As her new ‘crown’ was placed on her head this year a large cheer went up from the crowd, a huge glitter bomb went off and the sound of many bottles of sparkling wine opening could be heard all around.

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Other statues don’t have to feel they’ve missed out on a cap either

As well as sparkling wine, people drink sima, an alcoholic drink similar to mead, although the honey used in production is now comonly replaced by sugar. The alcohol content is generally so low it is considered okay for children to drink and is usually accompanied by munkki (doughnuts) or  tippaleipä (funnel cake).

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Sima and tippaleipä

Helium balloons are common accessories and sellers can be seen on nearly every street corner from the morning of the 30th April. There doesn’t seem to be a particular theme; we saw champagne bottles, life-size superheroes and of course the ever-present Angry Birds characters.

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The next day it is customary to have a picnic in the park and we were lucky enough to watch the crowds in Kaivopuisto from the warmth of Ravintola Kaivohuone (Kaivohuone Restaurant) as the temperature dropped down into the low single-digits. We heard there was a sauna set up in the park but the rain drove us back from exploring further. After the company brunch we caught the tram back to our apartment with some friends who helped us drink sima, sparkling wine and eat doughnuts in true Finnish style into the early evening.

Lounasaikaan (lunch time) at Market Square

Miko and I had a few errands to do today and ended up at Market Square. The markets there are open Monday -Saturday and on Sunday too in summer. For sale is a variety of seasonal produce as well as gifts and souvenirs. In winter there is a heated tent that you can sit inside to have your kahvi (coffee).

Christmas comes early for those who like reindeer!

Christmas comes early for those who like reindeer!

The first stall we came across was selling food from Lapland. On offer were potatoes and vegetables in a garlic sauce and reindeer cooked a few different ways – sautéed reindeer, reindeer soup, reindeer sausage….right next to the stall selling reindeer soft toys.

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Kahvi and munkki (coffee & doughnuts) on offer for May Day Eve

It’s the Finnish Vappu festival (Spring Festival and May Day Eve ) and stalls were offering kahvi (coffee) and munkki (doughnuts traditionally eaten this time of year ) all around the square. Other stalls had on display mountains of new season strawberries, potatoes and beans.

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Finland is known as the land of a thousand lakes and fish provides an important source of protein to the national diet. Miko and I visited a woman on her boat to buy some salmon cakes and fried Baltic herring for our lunch.

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Baltic herring is sited as one of the most economically important species fished in Finland. Not only is it good for the economy but it contains much needed Omega-3 fatty acids, minerals and vitamin D. Each year in October, Market Square hosts a Baltic Herring Fair, a Finnish tradition dating back to the 18th century. 

Fried Baltic herring & a salmon cake

Fried Baltic herring & a salmon cake

We sat beside the water and enjoyed our lunch until some uninvited seagulls joined us. I was taken with their black faces and wing tips but they scared my dining companion and we had to leave.

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Playing in the puisto (park)

Living in an apartment is a good incentive to get out and try the many playgrounds that Helsinki has to offer.

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The first thing that stands out is how big they are – Topeliuksenpuisto is about the size of half a rugby field – and dusty. Of course this will change with the weather but it makes kicking a ball around very easy.

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And the great thing is you don’t have to take a ball. At first I thought someone had left their scooter behind when we went to Lastenlehtopuisto and kept half an eye on it to see who would claim it. And then it dawned on me that these toys are for everyone.

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There a toys at every park that get packed up at night, either by the adjoining kindergarten or by the public at the end of the day. They go into large plastic tubs that are sometimes locked and include a huge range of trucks, spades, buckets and ride on toys likes scooters and bikes. Today Miko got kitted up and shot goals with the hockey gear we found at Tehtaanpuisto.

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Each park has slightly different features and although familiar (a slide is a slide after all) each is slightly different to what we have at home in New Zealand. The swing seats are different; the slides may have a big hill to climb to get to the top, instead of a ladder; and today we saw some awesome tandem trikes.

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I have a feeling we are going to become very familiar with these features of Helsinki and this won’t be my last post on puistot.