Breaking free in the Baana & beyond

May 29, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 10 Comments

Miko is great company but we don’t get much of a break from each other these days. So its a real a treat for me to have a walk by myself – no stroller to push; no wrestling a human octopus into a jacket and no need to hear myself issue instructions like ‘Stop licking me, I am not an ice cream!’

On a beautiful spring day last weekend I managed to escape on my own for a couple of hours and set out to explore the Baana, without really knowing where I would end up.

Like New York’s High Line, Helsinki has transformed a former freight line into a safe route for pedestrians through the heart of the city. Called the Baana, this ‘Low Line’ is carved out of the streets and provides a 1.3km passage from West Harbour to Töölö Bay via Kamppi. With an entrance at each end and four ramps to street level along the way, there are paths marked out for those on foot as well as those travelling by bicycle.

Near West Harbour there are ping pong tables, a basketball court and seating areas, all of which were being used on the sunny day I set off. Like most of Helsinki there were loads of people passing by on bicycles, safe from the main traffic area. After coming out near the city I carried on towards Töölö and the peninsula known as Hietaniemi.

One of the nicest thing about this time of year is seeing Finnish people just relishing the sunshine and taking the time to sit with friends and relax in its rays. I can’t help but smile when I see people sitting alone, eyes closed, face lifted to the sun with looks of pure bliss on their faces.

This lake is so close to the city but feels miles away. The number of birds returning to the area after their winter travel is increasing, their presence made known by the camera-shutter sound of their wings.

The foliage on the trees is changing dramatically and the shades of green at the moment are so fresh, like a giant salad tossed on the ground.

I walked past a large cemetery and further on passed by the back of a hospital where women were tending the vegetable garden. It seems nature is left untamed here, no fancy hedge trimming or pruning; each plant’s journey towards the sun left uncompromised after such a long winters sleep.

The hospital garden

I felt so refreshed by the end of my walk I looked forward to heading home and putting my feet up. Best of all I was ready to spend time with Miko again, musing over the mysteries of life, because really, its important to know, ‘Does everyone have bottoms?‘

Trash and treasure in Helsinki’s parks

May 28, 2014May 28, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 1 Comment

I used to love Cleaning Day at work in Sydney. I remember singing ‘I’m having the time of my life‘ from Dirty Dancing as I hurled old paper files behind me, ready for the shredder. We were like a big messy family in that office and we’d fill a skip outside with rubbish that people would sift through on their way past. One year I saw a man take home a big double wardrobe we were giving away, balanced carefully on his ten-speed bicycle. Another time a well-meaning client brought us in a gaudy statue of a dolphin sitting on a log that he had just found and would look great in the office! I thanked him and then put it back in the skip where he had got it from.

So there’s something so exciting about seeing the people of Helsinki being encouraged to clean out their homes and then hold outdoor sales around the city. Siivouspäivä, or Cleaning Day, is held twice a year with the event being held for the fifth time just last Saturday 24th May.

People can set up to sell their unneeded belongings anywhere around the city. I saw stalls outside apartments, on street corners, in parks and on pavements. There were loads of clothes and kids toys for sale as well as homewares and books.

People were out enjoying the sunshine, perusing the stalls and having picnics. Stallholders were drinking wine in the sun or eating with family and friends. There was a lovely festive feeling as the city’s belongings were moved from one home to another.

At the end of the day community development agencies UFF and Fida arrive in certain spots to take away any unsold goods to sell in their charity stores. Bins and recycling areas are also advertised on the Siivouspäivä website to avoid junk being left behind. As the website says, its ‘the neatest festival of the year.’

http://siivouspaiva.com/en_EN/

An island of animals never before seen

May 22, 2014February 13, 2015 / Mel_inHelsinki / 5 Comments

Helsinki Zoo (Korkeasaari) is one of the oldest in the world and is home to a treasury of animals that seem very exotic to us Southern Hemisphere folk. Established in 1889 it is housed on an island which you can access by ferry or bus. On a sunny but crisp spring day we took the bus, as like many things in Finland the ferries are on limited service until June.

The bridge to Korkeasaari

The girl in the ticket office told us no balloons were allowed inside the zoo so we had to hand over the one Miko had been given at Helsinki Central Railway Station and leave it in the office with my name on it. I thought this was a good idea as I do worry about balloon skins being left around where birds or small animals can eat them.

Brown bear, brown bear, what do you see?

Like most people I have mixed feelings about zoos but if they’re for education this zoo really did provide us with an opportunity to see animals we have never seen before or have only seen in books. It was wonderful, like walking around Dr Doolittle’s island or a world where new animals are invented. Some animals looked familiar with just a slight difference about them – like the Mongolian horses or Hemione who were no doubt offended by us mistakenly calling them ‘donkeys‘.

Idyllic setting for crazy nesting birds

We were greeted at the front of the zoo by a sign warning us about the Canadian geese on site. It’s breeding season here and they are aggressively protecting their nests at the moment. Built at ground level the nests are quite large and dotted throughout the zoo gardens. One bird will sit on top of three or so eggs while its mate fiercely launches attacks on hapless passersby. It made for a day of much dodging and squealing as these large birds bore down on people honking and flapping their wings while the nest-warmer smugly changed position on top of its brood.

One mongoose, two … mongeese?

Due to the cold temperatures here some animals are moved inside for winter and so there are no elephants, giraffes or zebras like we see at home. Inside the Tropical House we saw lots of crazy little moustachioed tamarins that could fit comfortably in your hand if they would sit still long enough. They are named Keisaritamariini in reference to the moustache favoured by the German Emperor at the end of the 1800s.

A jurt (yurt)

We spent most the day saying ‘What is that?’ and searching for the names of each species of animal on its sign. We saw Brazilian Aguti, Patagonian Mara and Vicuna, Bactrian camels with two shaggy humps and Pére David’s deer which looked a bit like reindeer to us. It was really hard to take photos that do the zoo and its inhabitants justice but I really recommend checking out the Helsinki Zoo website which includes information in English and pictures of ice sculpting and other events.

Kind of like an Ibis in a red dress

And what of the balloon? Well, I dutifully approached the girl in the ticket office and said ‘Um, there’s a balloon here for Mel?’ and gave it to Miko who then saw the ice cream stand and in his excitement let go of the string. We watched the balloon immediately head high up in the sky, giddy with new found freedom after listening to the girls in the office for the last three hours, and can only hope it headed back to the city and not to Korkeasaari.

www.korkeasaari.fi

Restaurant Day (Ravintolapäivä)

May 20, 2014May 8, 2015 / Mel_inHelsinki / 3 Comments

Established in Helsinki in 2011, Restaurant Day is described on the official website as ‘a worldwide food carnival when anyone can set up a restaurant, café or bar for a day.’ People can sell their wares to the public by setting up a food stall wherever they like: at home, in a park, on the street or at the railway station. They are only limited by their imagination and their cooking skills.

Setting up in Vanhan Kirkon Puisto (Old Church Park)

Restaurant Day is now held four times a year in 27 countries around the world. We were lucky enough that the latest was held last Saturday on a bright and sunny spring day. We headed down to Vanhan Kirkon Puisto (Old Church Park) quite early and watched as the first stalls were set up.

The girls at Cafe Tivoli

My first purchase was from two girls who had set up a stall of home-made baking called Cafe Tivoli. Their chocolate brownie was delicious and a good accompaniment to our morning kahvi (coffee).

Some of the goods on offer at Cafe Tivoli

Jonny’s brother had a good looking falafel roll from another stand and Jonny bought a wrap from Soul Mamma’s Kitchen. It advertised itself as a vegan stall but he chose a goats cheese wrap from the menu. It came without goats cheese so was at least true to its vegan claim if not the menu.

Soul Mama’s Kitchen

Apparently food in Helsinki has come a long way in recent years but there is not as large a selection as we have at home. So it was really exciting to see offerings from cuisines as diverse as Korean, Moroccan, Dutch and Russian.

Cakes served with tea from the samovar

There was also a Brazilian barbecue offering a World Cup special of a main plate with a grilled banana and guarana. The boys were firing up their large open grill with a huge piece of meat on it as well as little chicken hearts on skewers.

Traditional Finnish fare was represented too; one of the most popular stalls we saw was run by a Finnish women’s assocation selling kahvi and pulla (coffee and pastries).

We saw the chef from the Mexican restaurant we had eaten at the night before setting up a stall; apparently Restaurant Day is a good way for people to try new recipes out on the public. I read one interview where a woman who was hoping to open her own Indian restaurant planned on using the day to gauge the popularity of various home-cooked dishes she hoped to put on her menu.

My only regret on this day was having breakfast before we came out. We had to head out to another event around midday so I didn’t quite have the appeptite to try as many things as I would have liked. But I’ll know better for next Restaurant Day, which will be held in mid-August.

www.restaurantday.org

A day by the book

May 17, 2014May 17, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 2 Comments

Tuesday was a drizzly day so Miko and I went to find Helsinki’s main public library. We caught the tram from Kamppi and travelled 20 minutes north to Pasila. The trams are free for us as anyone travelling with a child in a stroller doesn’t need to pay for themselves or the child. This applies on buses, trains and most ferries too.

Save money – find a small child to travel with

The library was easy to find and joining was really quick and simple. It was a great feeling as there are still a few steps to go until we can gain most benefits available to residents. Getting our new library cards took only a matter of minutes after we showed our residency permits.

Kirjasto = Bibliotek = Library

This library was really lovely and full of light. There was a large pond in the middle with study tables set up around it. A woman was absorbed in the task of doing a 5000 piece jigsaw puzzle set up on a large table. I saw her move on after a while and someone else soon took her place.

The woman who set up my library card told me they have books in over 60 languages. It was great to find the English section and a pile of books by one of my favourite authors. I’ve been needing something to read and was really happy to find a local paper written in English too.

The children’s computers

There was also a section of books for children written in English – really good books too, each one feeling like a real find. Or maybe it was just that there were only a select few and they all seemed a treat being in our native language! The children’s part of the library was also really nice, with lovely furniture and posters, reading alcoves and play areas.

Miko & Moomin

I saw so many familiar books and titles from home, translated into Finnish. Books about Babar, Richard Scarry books, picture books for young children with exactly the same pictures as our ones at home – even a Little Golden Book about visiting the doctor printed in the 1960’s.

We finished our visit with a trip to the library cafe on the second floor. This is also the floor that holds the magazine collection. There are really lovely areas set out for reading, all with lovely Scandinavian furniture. There are plenty of services at the library we’ll be able to make use of including Finnish language groups, the online film library IndieFlix and even 3D printing! A drizzly day is not looking so grey now.

Ode to Bicycles

May 13, 2014May 20, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 5 Comments

I see you there, bicycle

Leaning on the wall

Waiting for your rider

As in a shop they call

You are a swift and silent steed

As you canter through the streets

Your tires are pumped

Your saddle plumped

No need for bribes or treats

You have your own marked laneway

That no one would dare cross

Without a quick glance left and right

Unless they’re up for loss

Police outline of a flattened mother & child and the bicycle they suspect did it

No helmet for your rider

In Helsinki it’s not needed

Road rules apply, no cars defy

And safety’s always heeded

So there you wait, outside cafes

Ready to get rollin’

I can’t believe that you’re still there

In Sydney you’d be stolen.

The answer to one of life’s mysteries…almost

May 13, 2014June 27, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 1 Comment

Here I will endeavour to answer one of life’s most interesting questions. A question as interesting as it is intriguing, and so oft asked you’ll know it before you read it: How do Finns sort their recycling?

And my answer has but two words: Comprehensively and Honestly.

Comprehensively because I have never before seen so many options in one rubbish room. I thought I was doing well in New Zealand because I separated the recyclables from the paper. But here, each of those items has its own bin AND they separate the paper into three different categories. Maybe more.

Mixed waste

In our rubbish room in Helsinki there is a different bin for each type of waste: glass, metal, mixed waste, bio waste and then the three paper bins. So for the first week or so I was constantly lifting the lid of each bin for clues as to what goes where.

Bio waste including paper towels

To be honest I still haven’t figured out all the paper bins but from what I can tell these are the categories: magazines & letters (advertising); regular paper; cardboard including corrugated cardboard; and cartons such as milk cartons, pizza boxes and egg crates – each type of paper or card having its own receptacle. Paper towels and tissues go in with the bio waste. And to make it more confusing for my little English-speaking mind there seems to be another bin for boxes.

Letters & Magazines

But where is the bin for plastics? Well that’s why I said Finns recycle honestly. There is NO bin for plastics! Plastic drink bottles earn you a small refund at the cleverly named reverse vending machines but general household plastics (detergent bottles, ice cream containers, plastic takeaway containers) are not collected for recycling.

Cartons & sugar and flour in paper bags

There’s a community forum online where new arrivals to Finland can ask questions. Someone had already sought guidance about where to put plastics and another member explained it is too difficult and therefore too expensive for household plastics to be sorted for recycling. Plastic waste is also often not clean enough for recycling which makes my mixed bin of glass, metal and every plastic under the sun seem a nightmare for the recyclers in NZ now.

Plastic recycling bins were trialled in the 1990s in Finland but from what I read the energy used to sort and clean all the plastic was found to outweigh the environmental benefits. It’s not to say no household plastics are recycled in Finland as they are used for fuel and other products but you won’t find a bin in most residential buildings.

The flipside of this is it does make me think more about packaging as I know plastics won’t be recycled instead of kind of hoping they would. You have to pay for bags at the supermarket too so I’m much better at taking my own bag along. We even have one with the image of the Finnish national icon on it.

Our shopping bag featuring Moomin

Hietalahti Market Square

May 11, 2014May 11, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 4 Comments

We were walking to catch the bus yesterday but roadworks meant we had to walk further than anticipated. Which was great because we came across Hietalahti Markets in full swing.

Hietalahti Market Square

This popular flea market is located near the water and is open Monday – Saturday and Sundays in summer. There was a huge range of wares for sale including second hand clothing, fabric, antiques, retro and vintage homewares and furniture. There were even a couple of stalls selling fresh produce direct from the growers. The Market Hall behind is home to a huge food market selling everything from fish and meat to cheese and pastries (more on that later).

It’s as though Hercule Poirot is having a garage sale

We only had 15 minutes until our bus arrived and so we did a fairly quick round of all the tables and all the treasures they held. I will definitely be coming back though as my eyes were like huge saucers looking at all the retro dinnerware and furniture.

Something for everyone – even those without their own family portraits

Just last week I was extolling the virtues of minimalism and how good it is to not have all our stuff here yet from New Zealand. But that was before we stumbled across Hietalahti Market Square…and maybe it doesn’t count if it used to be someone else’s stuff….?

Bargains galore – and this 400€ pöytä (table)

On

The positive side-effects of moving overseas

May 8, 2014May 10, 2014 / Mel_inHelsinki / 3 Comments

I was laughing with my friend Adam about why we felt we needed to move somewhere else before we made a start on our ‘A Better Me’ to do list. For example, I just ‘knew’ that once we moved to Finland I would cook my way through Ottolenghi’s Plenty cookbook, despite only using it twice in NZ. I also ‘know’ that in winter I will read all the novels I have on my bedside table and use my time wisely, doing craft and baking rather than lying around eating cheese toasties like I do at home. And Adam ‘knew’ that once he moved into his new house he was going to do yoga on the balcony each and every morning. I must check in with how that’s going….

Artist’s impression of me baking this winter

…because I’m making some headway on my list! Although its all by circumstance, rather than self-discipline. Which makes me think perhaps I wasn’t really identifying enough with why I thought I should do some of these things in the first place and therefore never did them. Here’s what I’ve managed so far:

I’m walking everyday

Original reason: I love to exercise and make it a part of my daily life

Real reason: We don’t own a car here

I no longer watch TV

Original reason: My time is valuable and I use it wisely

Real reason: Everything I’ve seen so far is in Finnish or Swedish except for McCleod’s Daughters or Emmerdale. Having said that I did watch a bit of Miss Finland and a doco on Abba but am not tuning in to tune out every night.

I’m not reading the news

Original reason: I don’t need to fill my head with the bad things that happen in the world

Real reason: I don’t really feel too attached to the world of news here or overseas at the moment

I don’t drink wine every night (despite it being good for your heart)

Original reason: My body is a temple and not one that takes communion every day in large glasses*

Real reason: They don’t sell wine at the supermarket and the Alko store is a fair walk away (more on that later)

We eat simple meals each night together at the table

Original reason: We eat mindfully and value our together time

Real reason: We don’t have a fridge full of food accumulated over time and we are also trying to buy conservatively as we are still spending NZ dollars. Jonny now finishes work at 6pm at the latest and not Miko’s bedtime like he did in NZ. (Also see item above about not watching TV).

We live minimally and are not tied to our possessions

Original reason: Something about not needing ‘stuff’ to feel good

Real reason: It’s all in shipping containers and isn’t here yet!

* I realise this is a mixed religious metaphor but nobody says ‘my body is a Catholic church’